You use the colour wheel as a guide to help you determine which colours work together to achieve your goal.
Monochromatic colour schemes use a variation in value and saturation of a single colour. Values are most easily thought of as a scale from 1-10 with 0 being the lightest and 10 being the darkest. Saturate of opposite hues (which will be on opposite sides of the wheel). This scheme has the most contrast because you will always end up with a warm colour playing against a cool. Triadic colour schemes use three colours that are evenly spaced around the wheel. It offers strong contrast but appears very balanced. So now that you have a basic idea of how to look at colours let’s discuss how you put them together.
Your final colour selection makes the first impression. It is the first thing the client notices when she looks looks in the mirror after you’re finished. It’s the first thing people see when she leaves your office. Getting the colour just right is absolutely imperative. Not only do you need to know how colours react to each other with hues half way between the primary colours used to make them. Tertiary colours result when you mix a primary and a secondary colour. In mixing black and white are not regarded as true hues but are used to effect the value of a colour. Add black and the value gets darker (a shade of that colour). Add white and the value gets lighter (a tint of that colour). Be careful, black can act like blue; it will make green when mixed with yellow. You can also darken a colour by use of its complimentary colour.
This method gives you a much richer, and often even darker, colour than by just adding black.. The problem is going to far. Mix too many or the wrong combination of colors and you end up with mud. You must also consider the skin beneath the pigment. Using a cool colour on warm skin tones and the end result may be a little duller than you had anticipated. Any problem can be anticipated and planned for if you think about it ahead of time. And, like everything else, practice makes perfect!
There are many reasons we need to correct colour in our profession. Here are just a few of those reasons including an explanation and the best approach to correcting them. Colour Correction Basic Brown is not a colour but is a blend of colours. Your basic brown consists of red, yellow and black or red, yellow and blue. Colours do not fade equally overtime and therefore when black fades first, you’re left with the typical orange, pinky brow with inorganic pigments such as iron oxides. With organic colours, you’re more likely to see purple “eggplant” brows overtime because the red and blue, minus yellow, create purple. Sunlight and chemicals fade pigments, period. Just remember that each colour fades at a different rate and this is a measure of the colourfastness of the pigment. Red is the opposite of green, so to correct a red or orange brow you’ll need a good bit of green. Reach for Green toner to “ash out” red brows. Tattoo in the Green Toner and then “rub in” the desired brow colour.
An effective approach to colour correction includes these steps: Step 1 Control the undesired colour first. You can do this several ways, depending on your situation. 1. undesired colour 2. Neutralize undesired colour 3. Add desired colour 4. Fade undesired area flow smoothly. The result? Smooth even colour with each stroke and happy clients every time!
The NuBrown Eyebrow colours have been formulated by Dr. Dixon so they don’t turn orange or pink over time. To warm up a brow that is too ash, simply add a couple of drops of Bubblegum. I t’s true that you get twice as much colour from a bottle of Kolorsource pigments than most any other brand. We have found ways to compress and concentrate our pigments. The colours lasts longer and fades less. No undesired change in colour with time. You can lighten them with Neutral Flesh or make any colour you wish by mixing them together. Shake the bottle real well and then you can make as many colours as you need. The result? Smooth even colour with each stroke and happy clients every time.
CHOOSING COLOUR FOR GREY/SILVER HAIR TONES
Taupe 2 Rich NuBrown (303) Light ash tone for silver-haired women who want NO YELLOW.
Warm Smoke Softy Gray Brown (901) Rich, neutral grey. Add Neutral Flesh for lighter grey or silver.
CHOOSING COLOURS FOR BLONDES
Taupe 2 Great for shadow work in brows a rich tone
Blonde NuBrown (9908) Golden neutral blonde. No red. Add Ashe Blonde to lighten or Coco to darken.
Cashmere soft light brown for shadow or hair strokes.
CHOOSING COLOURS FOR BRUNETTES
Chocolate Mousse (988) Balanced, deep rich brown. Neutral. Great for micro blading too!
Coco NuBrown (3311) Medium rich brown. Powder or hairstrokes. Cool. Corrects orange brows in one-step.
Dream NuBrown (45) Neutral, DARK brown with balanced warm/cool mixture. New formula rich but won’t go “orangey” on you
Fudge NuBrown (9939) Truly the colour of rich fudge.
Xpresso NuBrown (9937) Dark neutral/warm colour.
830 StaBrown Warm Light Brown
829 StaBrown Balanced Medium Brown
828 StaBrown Ash Dark Brow
Burnt Toast (8478) Popular colour for micro blading hairstrokes. Very dark.
Dream Nubrown below. - This is a universal brow colour.
CHOOSING COLOURS FOR REDHEADS
"Why do redheads give you the blues?" The answer, I learned the hard way, is because their skin is so translucent that the blue and/or grey of the underlying collagen and blood vessels is easily visible and you can't use regular brow colours because the "redheads" end up with a purple brow. So that began the path to finding colours for redheads that would be drop dead gorgeous. It's ironic that using a red pigment in a redhead doesn't work. You'd think that would be the way to go. Use two or more colours if you wish. Tint them with Neutral Flesh if you need a really light colour.
Cashmere (9199) Neutral, Rich light brown with few red hues but enough warmth to stay the rich brown that you want for many of your clients. Not too ashy or red. Add few drops of BurntToast for suede-like colorMedium NuBrown (9907) Rich, neutral brown Coco NuBrown (3311) Universal medium rich ash brown. Dark enough to do hairstrokes. Add Neutral Flesh to lighten or Bubblegum This is a universal brow colour. Dream NuBrow (45) Neutral, DARK brown with balanced warm/cool mixture. New. Non orange